Fine dining as nature intended
From Isle of Skye scallops to Sussex radish, Apricity’s traceable menu takes care of any concerns about the origin of ingredients, says Cara Yuzu.
The arrival of autumn marks Organic September, a month celebrating the commitment to working with nature when growing crops and rearing animals. I made the switch to organic produce more than 15 years ago, and I couldn’t feel healthier and happier. As a restaurant reviewers some exceptions have to be made of course when dining out, but my standards never fall below a certain level. For instance, I never order corn-fed chicken or farmed fish. This isn’t solely driven by ethics – health plays a very important part too. As the saying goes, “we are what we eat” and spinach mornay paired with antibiotic- rich farmed salmon is not what I’m looking for.
Another crucial aspect is taste. A dish made with chicken that was raised naturally on a pesticide-free diet, while roaming freely, offers an entirely different flavour and texture to one reared at scale.
Flavours of the season
Mayfair-based Apricity is a winner of a Michelin Green Star and is an essential culinary destination for anyone looking to celebrate organic produce. Located on vibrant Duke Street, Apricity puts the circular economy and sustainability at the heart of its offering, serving great food in tranquil surrounds. With a focus on seasonal cooking, head chef Chantelle Nicholson works closely with small scale producers – so small, we are told, that the menu sometimes changes at short notice due to the limited supply of certain ingredients.
The QR code menu neatly adapts to any updates, and we begin with an aromatic fig infused vodka spritz, before indulging on a delightful five-course tasting menu with a wine flight. Like the dishes, the wine and cocktails focus on organic production methods. For example, the naturally sparkling unfiltered Il Mio Ribelle (with native yeast) is the perfect pairing for Hillman Farm’s pork terrine.
The star of the show is delicately cooked, sweet, plump hand-dived Isle of Skye scallops topped with a crisp tempura roe – but be sure not to miss the palate cleanser of Kentish caramelised apricot mousse – it’s delightful, and sets you up perfectly for the next course.
The balance is right in the minimalist decor too – set off by timber flooring, the restaurant tastefully pairs distressed walls with hanging baskets to create a tranquil vibe. Apricity, meaning the warmth of the winter sun, is an apt name for a restaurant that puts nature centre stage, and it’s reassuring to experience a restaurant that takes as much care of the environment as it does the diner.
Further information – apricityrestaurant.com
About the author
Cara Yuzu is a lifestyle writer with a passion for sustainability and organic food. She has her own food blog Vanillabubbles and Caramelstyle and can be found on Instagram at plate.voyage.