To a sparkling weekend ahead
A Eurostar ride away from central London lies the gently sloping vineyards of France’s Champagne region, where Kevin Rozario has found the perfect weekend getaway
Having our fair share of bubbles over the festive season I hope, for some at least, their curiosity about the good stuff has been tickled somewhat. And by the good stuff, I mean champagne – although I am partial to a tasty crémant or prosecco too. There is a lot to be curious about because delving into champagne, once started, is a pursuit that can become a lifetime’s work for the lucky few.
If you’ve never done it, a visit to France’s Champagne region might sound like an excuse for little more than diversionary fun and frolics. It can be that, but it is also the chance for a full immersion into one of the world’s most esteemed and feted wines. My trip was both an education and an eye opener in thoroughly relaxing countryside filled with gastronomic delights at every turn.
From the choices available at your local wine merchant, you might never guess that there are more than 370 champagne houses served by 16,000 growers. It’s an ecosystem supporting thousands of jobs and generating €6.4bn in 2023 according to the Comité Champagne, which represents the industry.
Most of the labels are family-owned with their unique take on the celebratory tipple, one reason why it’s essential to visit a mix of the big and the smaller houses. That way you’ll get a real feel for the passion that goes into champagne making, and learn how the different terroirs and the ratios of pinot noir, chardonnay and meunier grapes impact the flavours and styles.
The lie of the land
The more familiar international labels like Lanson, Mumm, Pommery, and Taittinger tend to be in and around Reims, famous for its stunning Notre Dame Cathedral – a gothic masterpiece where French kings were crowned for more than 1,000 years.
Champagne’s other main centre is Épernay, through which runs the River Marne, snaking all the way to just outside the Boulevard Périphérique in Paris, the capital city’s inner ring road. Épernay’s Avenue de Champagne is home to a string of smaller producers such as Boizel, De Venoge, and Esterlin with their extensive cellars below.
Another centre is Aÿ-Champagne, home to Bollinger, famous for its associations with James Bond. Although the British spy wasn’t really so picky – he drank his way through Pommery, Krug, Veuve Clicquot, Dom Pérignon, and Taittinger in the course of the 007 movie franchise. Who can blame him given his demanding job? As Napoleon Bonaparte once said: “I cannot live without champagne. In victory I deserve it, in defeat I need it.”
On my recent trip from London, I used the Eurostar and TGV train network without having to connect in Paris (more on that later). I chose to base myself in Épernay, having stayed in Reims a few years ago.
Get a good view
For all-out luxury in a modern and contemporary setting there is no better place to be than the Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa. The venue is about 8km north of Épernay, sitting on top of a hill with sweeping views of rolling vineyards. The curved design of the building gives all its tastefully appointed yet uncluttered 47 rooms equal access to this relaxing vista.
For a more homely, but still indulgent accommodation, Domaine du Chalet, owned by Champagne Palmer, is a great alternative. It is also at a high elevation halfway between Épernay and Reims and situated in its own large manicured grounds with glorious views, too.
The Royal Champagne has fine dining of the highest order at its one-Michelin-starred Le Royal Restaurant. Here, chef Christophe Raoux crafts seasonal menus with champagnes, selected by head sommelier Philippe Marques, very much in mind. Waiting staff, even juniors, are incredibly well versed in the extensive list. The hotel has a large champagne collection with airy tasting spaces. They can also organise customised visits to the region’s renowned houses as well as small-scale producers on request.
You can, of course, plan your own visits if you have a car or other transport, or even do it by bike if you are feeling energetic. On a two-night trip I visited five houses across the region by car, as well as Club Trésors – the region’s first association of winegrowers – in Reims.
Club Trésors was my last visit and it’s the place I would recommend everyone to go. From the outside it looks like a shop, which it is, but inside it hosts a variety of small-production champagne houses, with an illuminated bottle from each one hanging from the ceiling on a stretch cord. Pull on one to get more details before going to the correspondingly numbered shelves to see the bottles.
Almost 200 vintages are offered from the roughly 24 club members, including its prestigious vintage ‘Special Club’, a designation awarded by peers for exceptional cuvées. What’s nice about Club Trésors is its informal atmosphere and the opportunity to partake in tastings and learn personally from the family-grower fraternity when they are there.
A well-trodden path
My first stop took me to Champagne Boizel, founded in 1834 and run by the sixth-generation owner Florent Boizel and his brother Lionel. Cellar visits have been conducted since 2018 following a full renovation of its premises. The house’s first export market was England in 1851 and the strong ties persist; a partnership with Majestic was established in October 2024.
The next stop, Champagne Palmer, is a different beast. Palmer & Co was established post-war in 1947 by seven grower-families with Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards in the Montagne de Reims region of Champagne. The brand produces just four collections, well-matured in its chalk cellars and selling about one million bottles a year, with the UK again its most mature market.
Taittinger, independent since 2006 after the eponymous family reacquired the house from a private equity firm, has deep roots in the Champagne region.
Its storied history dates back to 1734 with an estate now covering 288 hectares. It also has strong connections to England having also established a joint estate, Domaine Evremond, in Kent a few years ago, with the first products coming to market this spring.
Taittinger has vast, labyrinthine cellars attracting huge numbers of tourists. They start their journey in a modern pared-down arts-oriented visitor centre. It was opened last summer offering access to 37 ‘caves’, the deepest going down 30 metres. The house punches above its weight globally, possibly due to its sports sponsorships, which include the FIFA World Cup and yachting events, plus its prominence in airport duty-free stores.
Small is beautiful
For a totally different view of champagne-making, head to a smaller grower. One I would recommend is the charming estate of Jean Baillette-Prudhomme where you can experience informal cellar tastings with fifth generation Laureen Baillette, who brings a playful but focused approach to her craft.
A visit to Reims would not be complete without stopping at Vranken Pommery and Villa Demoiselle across the road. At first glance the large estate, which is about a 30-minute walk to the cathedral, epitomises the Disneyfication of Champagne. From its whacky exterior sculptures – during my visit there was an oversize gardener with a pumpkin for a head and a jumbo watering can nearby – the place has an air of creative flamboyance.
Like other big champagne names, Pommery is steeped in history. It celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2024 and a visit to its cellars will confirm the business genius of Madame Pommery who took the house to great heights. England, again, underpinned her strategic plans for growth in the mid 1800s.
And for Art Nouveau fans, the turn of the 20th-century Villa Demoiselle is a must-see. It was restored in 2008 by owners Paul-François and Nathalie Vranken with no expense spared. Featuring many artworks and interior-design gems, this house is a treat.
These are just some of the houses you can visit, but there are so many more. The Comité Champagne website is a good place to start your research as it lists all the champagne producers, wine trails, and what’s on in the region. If anything in particular catches your eye, then create an itinerary before you go. Otherwise, simply enjoy a delicious deep dive into this fabulous region.
LOGISTICS FROM LONDON
Kevin took Eurostar’s Amsterdam service from St Pancras International with a change at Lille to a TGV Inoui service to Champagne Ardenne train station in under four hours. Depending on the time of setting off, train travel via Paris can be faster or slower. From the capital you have the option of going to Reims from Gare de l’Est if you prefer to be based there – for first-time visitors he would recommends this.
Eurostar’s cheapest tickets (always in short supply) start at £39 each way to Paris, plus the SNCF booking for the TGV. If you want to do it in gastronomic style from the outset, Eurostar has introduced a new Premier service for £275 each way with fully flexible tickets and lounge access. A key feature is a new menu from two-Michelin- starred chef Jeremy Chan, and 2019’s World’s Best Pastry Chef, Jessica Préalpato. They took over in November 2024. British sommelier Honey Spencer, has selected the wines and champagne.