When jewellery become iconic

Stories of Hip Hop explores how one of music’s most celebrated cultures also gave birth to an incredible legacy of jewellery innovation

Large, heavy necklaces, a ring on every finger, dental jewellery called Grillz, snapback caps and stylish sunglasses, hip hop’s powerful influence has reached every corner of culture, not least the world of jewellery. The hip hop artist’s jewellery is often customised to suit individual preferences: from the small details, such as the specific style of a chain link to the type or shape of gemstone, the style conveys something very definite about the wearer. Many artists have a preference for extravagant pieces, like multi-strand gold chains.

All of this and more will be explored at a dedicated exhibition, Stories of Hip Hop at Pforzheim Jewellery Museum, Baden-Württemberg, southwest Germany.

The exhibition, which begins on 30 March will be “telling stories themed around this social phenomenon” says curator of the exhibition Tom Frietsch.

Standing out

One of the prominent features of hip hop fashion is the extravagant and conspicuous nature of the jewellery, which is often oversized and lavishly encrusted with diamonds or other gemstones. In addition to flashy accessorising, apparel and graffiti are other cornerstones of hip hop culture.

Salt ‘N’ Pepa, for example, introduced the audacious ‘door knocker’ earrings – eye-catching gold earrings in the shape of door knockers – to the mainstream. Because in hip hop it’s all about sending out a message and reinventing yourself. This is why artists often change their names, adopt alter-egos, or other creative manifestations. This is embedded in their flamboyant bling-bling jewellery, including bronze belt buckles, creole earrings or diamonds. The rapper Lil Uzu Vert even had a pink diamond implanted into his forehead.

The team at Pforzheim Jewellery Museum got in touch with jewellery manufacturers to shed light on the stories behind these deeply personal, culturally significant exhibits. They have been created by, among others, Grill Meister from Berlin, Playground from London, and Rouven Groetzki in Pforzheim.

Stories of Hip Hop will be showcasing portraits of famous hip hop artists, as well as a large-format picture gallery by the photographer ONDRO, displaying key figures from the genre. Album covers will also take centre stage, many of which focus on the artists’ extravagant jewellery. “With this special exhibition, which will extend throughout the entire building, we aim to convey the sense of life of this movement and make it experientially accessible. For this purpose, we have planned numerous workshops, readings and concerts,” explains Cornelie Holzach, Director of Pforzheim Jewellery Museum.

“Hip hop is more than a music genre – it’s a culture and a sense of life that has changed considerably over the course of the decades,” explains journalist Falk Schacht, who has written numerous texts for the exhibition.

Exhibition designer Jan Saggau will be staging, among other things, a record store at the exhibition. Also among the attractions is a replica of the legendary Rucker Park, which will be installed in the exhibition hall. Rucker Park in Manhattan is integral to the history of hip hop and basketball, and is symbolic of the influence of public spaces on youth culture, whether in New York, LA, or Berlin.

Jewellery exhibits on view will include a mixture of bling-bling – both originals and replicas – rings, necklaces, sunglasses, hats, Grillz and hip hop fashion. There will also be an evening event with Hiphop Kitchen whose chefs will be creating a five-course, hip hop-themed dinner. Overall, the exhibition will reflect an enormous creative spectrum, illustrating hip hop as a mirror of our society in so many ways.

A collaboration between the School of Design at Pforzheim University and the museum has been initiated around the tag-line ‘Pforzheim Design Meets Hip Hop’. Students from courses in fashion, jewellery, and design courses have explored the relationship between design and hip hop, looking for signposts and clues as they trace the relationship back.

The students have created unique pieces for their choice of hip hop artist, such as Bush.ida or Finna, which will be displayed in the exhibition. The project is being supervised by Professor Claudia Throm and the instructor Markus Müller from the Fashion Department, as well as by Professor Evelyn Echle from the Department of Art History and Cultural Sciences, and is supported by ONDRO.

Stories of Hip Hop is being curated by photographer and crafts specialist Tom Frietsch. Co-curators Falk Schacht and Jan Saggau (Studio JASA in Berlin) are overseeing accompanying texts and exhibition design.

Further information

Stories of Hip Hop opens 29 March 7pm and runs until 29 June 2025. To find out more please visit: schmuckmuseum.de or storiesofhiphop.de